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Trracer Owner Group

Trracer FAQ
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General Information 

Product: PMI Trracer Paintball Gun

Action Type: Nelson Based Pump

Trigger Type: Autotrigger

Current Average Price (NEW): $150

Product Description: The Trracer is a simple pump gun designed to be a beginner 
paint gun. The gun is based on the simple Nelson gun design like many others are. 
This also provides many sources of parts like springs and O-rings and a wealth
of knowledge. The bolt, striker, striker spring, and valve are all on the same
center line, providing a low profile, and simple mechinism. The receiver, barrel,
and valve assembly are anodized aluminum. The trigger assembly, pump, and grip are
completely plastic.

Advantages/Pluses: + Simple and Popular Nelson design + Cheap + Accurate + Reliable
+ Beginner friendly + Wide range of useable paint

Disadvantages/Minuses: - Valve assembly is too weak for back bottle use 
in some cases* - Grip frame is plastic (adds to the above problem) - Stock
model is inefficiant when using the back bottle* - Bad sight picture when used
with a mask* - Must switch striker springs to adjust velocity* - Valve assembly
tends to leak when playing* - Very loud when firing* * = A fix is available for this
down fall

Common Problems

"My gun leaks air down the barrel when I apply preassure to the back bottle"
 - - The valve tube in the reciever is flexing when pressure is applied to the
 back bottle, thereby creating a leak in the actual valve assembly. Don't put
preassure on the bottle, or get a bottom line setup for the gun (See MODS:Bottom Line Setup).

"I tend to get liquid in the gun when playing in cooler temps." - - The liquid
in the CO2 tank doesn't have enough volume space to expand into gas.
Get a bottom line setup. This will allow time for the liquid to expand into
gas in the hose before it gets to the valve. This will only make it better, not fully
solve the problem.

"My gun leaks air down the barrel all the time." - - Two possibilities,
not enough gas in tank, or your valve O-ring is dry or damaged. Push the pin
on the tank in. If you can push it in without much effort then the tank is empty.
If not, pull out the valve assembly and unscrew the brass cap with the tube
going though it. The O-ring on the silver looking tube should be moist with
 oil and not damaged. If it is damaged then replace.

"My gun blows gas out when I pump it." - - I have found that a striker spring that
is too heavy will cause the valve to be actuated while pumping. Use a lighter
spring and an adjustable bolt (See MODS:Adjusting Velocity).

"When I autotrigger real fast, my range decreases drasticly." - - The liquid
from the tank is not expanding fast enough in the valve or the bottom line hose.
A small tank that screws into the back bottle adapter and hooks up to the bottom
line hose should give the liquid a place to expand and
also provide a buffer of gas ready for the valve system.

"My gun is too loud when firing and has 'I'm over hear ready to be shot'
written all over it's report."
- - Get a Smart-Parts style rifled barrel or a good muzzle break.

Modifications for Fixing or Enhancing the Gun 

Adjusting Velocity - - Adjustable Bolt ($21) - Changes the tension on the striker spring by way of a
long Allen wrench stuck down the barrel. A might expensive but great for fast tune ups.

- - Nelson Spring Set ($??) - Striker springs varying in strength, thereby changing the gas released.

Expansion Chamber ($25-50?) - - A small tank that is an intermediate point for liquid CO2 to
expand in. Helps keep constant velocity. The ones for Semis are probably big time over kill but the
right idea. John Hamilton is the originator of the mini version (of my knowlage).

Bottom Line Setup ($45) - - Mounts a back bottle recepticle at the base of the grip. A hose is then
connected to the valve recepticle and the bottom grip recepticle to supply the gas. The hose acts as
an anti-liquid system providing volume for the liquid to expand to gas. It also improves the sight
picture and takes the stress off the valve assembly.

Barrels - - Custom Porting ($??) - The idea of porting the end of a barrel is a valid idea no matter
what individuals may say. I added 12 1/8" holes to the end of the barrel and recieved a gain in
consistancy in shot to shot performance. The therory is like this: the round ball is not perfect.
Therefore when the ball leaves the barrel the gas pop behind it will effect the ball differently each
time. If you can vent most of the gas before the ball leaves the barrel you will eliminate some of the
randomness due to that pop. You want the area of the porting to equal the area of the muzzle. If you
are unexperienced in this area then I suggest getting a manufactured barrel since it is easy to ruin a
decent stock barrel. - - Smart Parts ($80?) - Supposed to very good. Need input. - - J&J ($50?) -

Semiauto Mods - - Budd Orr Autococker for Trracer ($??) - Just get the Autococker (net
opinion). - - Chameleon Auto Trracer ($??) - Just get a real semiauto (net opinion).

Opinions and other Comments

{Any Opinions?}
This FAQ is intended to be a collection of knowlage and wisdom of this particular gun based on comments and experiences of those in REC.SPORT.PAINTBALL. No garauntees come with this FAQ and the author or contributors are not responsible for mistakes or problems incured from using this FAQ. All suggestions and comments are in good faith and do not intend to create problems. Prices are what I have found at local retail shops here in the Seattle, WA area. Note: Please send all corrections and comments to me directly by email to the above address. All info and comments not accompanied by an email address and first name are my own. Those that send info and comments to me will have and email address and first name attached for reference purposes. Ryan McNeilly (